Film Festival was this year’s slogan for Pitti Uomo, the men’s fashion show taking place for 93rd time. It was a tribute to the Hollywood’s greatest productions.
And since there is still something more into Pitti than peacocking and posing for photos seemingly ‘caught accidentally while on the street’, our selection is about what we have managed to extract from the colorful crowd and all the buzz. Come to think of it, it does actually have more in common lately with acting rather than fashion. Luckily, Florence still offers some common denominators, genuine style experts and a whole bunch of inspirations.
Already 92nd edition announced that sitting on the wall and circulating round the pan would become a thing from the past. This year the most important persons would not be posing for photos. Attracting attention was the great no-no, but what was actually in? The photographers were forced to chase the stars and not the other way round. The peacocks turned out to be a dying species.
Key players are definitely into subdued colors and looks. A little less fuss and a little more sophistication and gentle nonchalance.
Raglan – the king of Pitti Uomo 93
Raglan sleeve coats are flooding Instagram and Pitti, so you can expect them to rock the streets. Single or double-breasted, with or without buttons, plain or checkered – you name it yet definitely with a waist belt and knee-length.
Revisiting denim, not rethinking it.
Denim is not a new trend spotted at Pitti this year. Denim shirts were spotted with a suit and tie or matched with earth colors or casual suits with optically heavy fibers.
Turtlenecks have a grip.
Turtlenecks with jackets and suits, instead of a shirt, turtlenecks of fleshy fabrics with double breasted jackets.
Brand new retro.
Corduroy is the word for the coming season. This time we’re talking jackets and suits, not only the good old trousers. Earth colors, soft and very casual jackets prevail. Feel free to wear it the conservative or extravagant way. The trend looks poised for success.
Getting the coat over it.
Some less fitted coats were spotted at Pitti yet not typical oversize ones. It was rather a slightly larger and more comfortable cut. ‘Overcoats’, some reminding of cloaks, are a very interesting inspiration. Our attention was caught by their cut (raglan, belt) or fabric (corduroy) rather than by colors.
This time less military/camo and more eco. Pitti was full of browns and subdued earth colors – beige, subdued green, orange… Earth colors immerse you in winter because they perfectly match the heavy winter shoes with thick soles and fleshy fabrics. These colors were seen in jackets, trousers, suits and accessories (ties, squares, bags, sweaters).
The street is taking over.
Democratic social media has apparently let the streets enter the stage where ‘odd matches’ are much appreciated. Pitti still stands for a classical fashion fair yet ‘a gradual casualization of apparel’ is a fact. Classical and casual items are mixed all over the place: suits are worn with military jackets or even with sports jackets while jackets and sports shoes seems to be normal and raise no eye brows. It is probably a galloping trend at the moment. Workwear matches the trend just perfectly.
A completely new shape of glasses emerged at Pitti and across new collections. Round frames are perhaps far from being over yet time has finally come for something new. Not to mention that rectangles match perfectly with ubiquitous references to the 1990s.
Back to the roots.
The rise of democratic casual perhaps explains why the classics are more radical and returning to its roots.
In formal pieces you will notice that notch is lowering, flaps are widening, jackets are less fitted while shoulders and sleeves are become wider. High-waist trousers and wider leg are here to stay. Still, the street style found its way around also here. The street-wise revolution expects you to wear more and more classic cuts with more casual accessories.
With all the fresh blood pouring in, Pitti remains the place where you learn how to wear classic in a completely non-classical, original, lively and un-biased way.
Kuba Graczyk – since 2015 has been working with us as a Sales Assistant, attending our MTM and wedding customers. Law student, keen on music and football – actually plays as a striker in an amateur football league. Loves pizza, especially the real Neapolitan one.
Maciej Zaremba – fourth generation of tailors in Zaremba family. From his grandfather he got his interest in classic menswear and the brand vision, from his father his passion for rally cars and music. Studied sound engineering and psychology, was a menswear consultant (“Forbes”) fashion editor (“Maxim”), designed the Polish UE Presidency official tie, but above all, he is responsible for brand development and style at Zaremba.